A Beginner's Glossary of Fabric

Knowing a few fabric terms makes shopping — especially online — far easier. The name of a fabric tells you how it’s constructed, and construction tells you how it will feel, drape and age.

Fibres versus fabrics

First, a useful distinction. A fibre is the raw material: cotton, wool, linen, silk, polyester, viscose. A fabric is what’s made from it by weaving or knitting. “Cotton” tells you the fibre; “poplin” tells you the fabric. You can have wool twill, cotton twill and polyester twill.

Woven fabrics

Poplin

A tightly woven plain weave with a smooth, crisp finish. The classic dress-shirt fabric.

Oxford

A slightly heavier, textured weave with a soft, casual look. Good for everyday shirts.

Twill

Woven so the threads form diagonal lines. Durable and drapes well — denim, chino and gabardine are all twills.

Satin

A weave that leaves long threads floating on the surface, giving a glossy face and a matte back.

Tweed

A rough, woollen fabric, often in mixed colours. Warm, hard-wearing and traditionally associated with the countryside.

Knitted fabrics

Jersey

A single knit that stretches easily. The T-shirt fabric.

Rib

Knitted in raised vertical lines; very stretchy and springy. Used for cuffs, collars and fitted tops.

Interlock

A double knit — smooth on both sides and more stable than jersey.

Textures & finishes

Bouclé

Made from looped yarn, producing a nubbly, textured surface. Famous in tailored jackets.

Brushed

Fabric whose surface has been raised to feel soft and fuzzy, like flannel.

Crêpe

A crinkled or grainy texture, created by twisting the yarn or by the weave. Drapes beautifully.

A quick rule of thumb

Tight weaves last; loose, loopy or floating ones snag.

Before buying, rub the fabric between your fingers and hold it up to the light. Density, weight and recovery (does it spring back when stretched?) will tell you more about quality than the label ever will.